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Beijing is a city
of contrasts and social extremes.
The city's neighborhoods - and its populations - face change on
an almost daily basis with older buildings being bulldozed to
make way for new commercial and residential developments.
Some see this as part of a process of improving the living
conditions of the average city resident.
Others see it as a means of driving poorer residents from the
city to make way for a more affluent and 'acceptable' face for
the nation's capital to present to the outside world -
particularly during the Olympic Games in 2008 when the city of
Beijing will be
presented in considerable detail to an unfamiliar and curious worldwide TV
audience. |
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Whatever the political agenda may be, construction of new,
modern buildings proceeds at a frenzied |
pace. |
Wherever you are in the city, the skyline is dominated by
construction cranes.
It is estimated that over 20% of the World's total inventory of large
construction cranes are currently located in Beijing....! |
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| As a result
of pressure from such intense development,
modern buildings and relatively affluent residents are
frequently forced to co-exist in very close proximity to traditional - and poorer - neighborhoods
and ways of life. |
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| I can
only guess at the strains that this creates. |
I
have been in China for 5 days. My hotel is conveniently located
near to the tennis complex.
It is in a relatively undeveloped part of the city.
The cost of a taxi is negligible (1.60 RMB per kilometer with a
minimum of 10 kilometer = $1.25). Being pedaled there is 50
cents.
In spite of this, I prefer to walk. The streets are busy with
traffic and people and I feel perfectly safe - even with
expensive photo equipment over my shoulder.
As each day passes, the neighbors have become more and more used
to me walking their neighborhood.
The greetings become friendlier, the smiles broader.
It is about our only way of communicating but it is clear that I
am accepted into their neighborhood. |
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It is
an exceptional feeling when more and more Mothers and
Grandmothers start to appear on my regular route - eager to show
me their children and have me take their pictures. They do not
ask for copies. They are just proud and happy for me to see.
Even previously reticent men want me to meet their friends and
talk about their hobbies. |
But
as I walk the urban streets to and from the tennis center, I
also become aware of a much poorer neighborhood that seems to
exist in the alleys to the West of the hotel. I am apprehensive
of exploring too far. My own experience of living in the United
States is that poorer neighborhoods are ones into which a
stranger definitely does not venture.
But my experience with the neighbors that I meet on a daily
basis erodes my concerns - and I am curious. I start to explore
further.
My friends and colleagues also staying at the hotel think that I
am insane.
Finally, as I keep showing up for breakfast each day, fears for
my safety and sanity wane and a few are even getting curious
themselves.
The following pages documents an early morning tour of local
neighborhoods with my friend Bob Daelemans,
CEO of Luxilon. |
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Heading West from the hotel, this family home is within a two
minute walk.
The father waves a friendly greeting as always and does not mind
me taking pictures of kids' bath time.
The kids are amused and not embarrassed. |
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Across the street, a key
maker displays his stock and waits for business. |
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| Pots
are prepared for the days passing dumpling and noodle trade. |
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